Build a mini storage shed to keep your outdoor essentials safe from the weather but always within easy reach.
A small steel shed is a practical and not-too-expensive way to store outdoor tools, but it’s not the best-looking garden feature. Even if you paint it, it’s always just a shed.
Designed to blend in on the wall of a weatherboard home, this timber cabinet is secured to the side of the house then painted to match the exterior colour scheme.
A streamlined storage solution, it still has plenty of hanging space for garden hand tools and there’s a shelf for pots, fertiliser and other essentials.
To withstand exposure to the elements and resist insect attack, the cabinet is built from marine-grade plywood and LOSP treated pine. Cut the plywood to size using a circular saw and straightedge guide, and use a mitresaw to cut the pine.
The tops of the sides are cut at a 60º angle to match the fall of the roof, with the side trim pieces and rafters also cut to match.
Finish the cabinet
Attach the cabinet to the wall studs, then refit the doors and roof. Fill over the nail and screw heads, apply two coats of exterior acrylic, then add the doorhandles and latch.
Attach mounting clips, brackets and hooks to the interior and doors.
Clad the roof in shingles to match the house or paint the plywood. Don’t use clay or concrete roof tiles, as they are thicker than shingles and may be too heavy for the cabinet.
Clad the roof in shingles to match the house or paint the plywood
Using a brad nailer
Securing the cleats, trim and fascia on this shed is hard work if you hammer in all the nails by hand.
A powered nailgun like the Ryobi 18V AirStrike brad nailer increases efficiency and reduces effort.
Compatible with Ryobi’s ONE+ batteries, this cordless pneumatic nailer is capable of driving fasteners up to 50mm long without needing a separate compressor and air hose.
The drive depth can be adjusted without using tools, and up to 700 nails can be driven on a single charge.
It has a magazine that holds 105 nails, indicator windows to show when you’re running out of ammo, and an automatic LED work light.
Mark the shelf location on the sides and prop them upright, then position the shelf on offcuts between the sides. Drill pilot holes and secure the shelf using screws, then position the back on the carcass assembly and secure to the sides and shelf with screws at 150mm centres.
Position the top and base front rails, then secure with screws. Clamp the outer rafters to the sides, flush with the angled tops, and position the centre rafter between the top rail and the back. Secure the rafters with pairs of screws through the back and the top front rail.
Use exterior PVA adhesive and nails to secure the cleats around the inside of the carcass, 19mm down from the top of the front base rail. Secure the first two floor slats, centred on the cleats with a 10mm gap in between, working outwards to secure the remaining slats with 9mm gaps.
Use a circular saw to bevel the back edge of the roof panel to match the side panels, then secure the roof trim using adhesive and galvanised nails. Position the roof on the rafters with an even overhang on each side, then temporarily secure it with screws driven into the rafters.
Drill 10mm starter holes and cut out the vent holes in the sides using a jigsaw. Cut the top of the side trim pieces at 60°. Clamp the front side trim to overhang the edge of the side by 19mm. Secure the front side trim using adhesive and screws, then attach the top and base fascia.
Clamp the hinges to a piece of scrap timber and countersink the square leaves to allow for the inset hinge design. Drill pilot holes on the inside face of the front side trim, then use timber screws to secure the hinges, aligning each hinge with
the centre of the three door rails.
Apply adhesive to the back of the stiles and secure to the door panels with bullethead nails, overhanging the hinge sides by 22mm. Position two rails between the stiles, flush with the edges of each door panel, and the third 310mm down from the top, securing with adhesive and nails.
Secure doorstops to the centre of the top and base front rails. Position the doors against the hinges with a 3mm gap at the centre, top and base, securing with the supplied screws. Attach the hanging rail with screws, then the door shelf and its mitred edging. Remove the doors and roof.
Attach steel angle 100mm from the base of the wall with coachscrews, then secure the bearer. Secure the cabinet to the studs with coachscrews. Scribe the back side trim to match the weatherboard profile, then attach with screws. Snap 100mm vents into the sides and seal with silicone.